Durango Guardian--The Eyes, Ears, Voice of the People, for LaPlata County, Colorado

When you first walk in to Sushitarian, you are greeted by a sign that says “Welcome To The Beach”. There are exquisite floral arrangements, hanging seashells and a mobile of fish and birds in the traditional art of Oregami in very modest surroundings. The crew, dressed in tropical shirts and colorful Japanese headbands, are some of the most helpful and friendly in town. Photos of their winter 2007 trip to Hawaii are displayed on the walls.

The owner, Toshihira Hiraoka, (Toshi) grew up only a few blocks from the boat docks in Northern Japan where his father was a seafood trader. When Toshi opened Sushitarian, his objective was to bring the locals of Durango a variety of fresh seafood and vegetarian dishes. Since then, the menu has evolved to include a few chicken and beef selections. One of the secrets of success of his business is the recipes for the savory sauces he formulated.

Sushi is their best seller with Makimono (traditional rolls) ranging from the Spicy Tuna and California to the Yellowtail Scallion. Specialty rolls include a heavenly Lobster Tempura Roll, the beautifully presented Pink Lady Hand Roll, featuring Deep-Fried Soft Shell Crab with avocado and a mild homemade spicy sauce, wrapped in pink soybean paper and the Philly Roll with salmon, avocado and cream cheese.

Soups start with their own spin on the classic Miso and Udon Noodle Soup, my personal favorite, both with a Dashi Bouillon, made from Shitake mushrooms, and a newer addition to the menu, Coconut Lime Soup, with mountain yam noodles, chicken and veggies. The Tropical Salad is delightful with fresh papaya and a topping of mango puree.

For the feint of heart at a Sushi restaurant, try the delicately pan-sautéed potstickers with their flavorful dipping sauce made from rice vinegar, sesame oil, soy sauce and Japanese Shimi (7 spices). Another excellent choice is their Shrimp and/or Vegetable Tempura. The Vegetable Tempura has a nice light batter and includes fresh mushroom, yam, and, for a Southwestern flair, a green chili.

Sushitarian is open seven days a week with lunch Monday through Friday and a daily Happy Hour and all day Sunday. They plan to start delivering lunch downtown soon. Some of the best deals in the place are the Sushi Roll Lunch and the Noodle Set with Udon or Soba Noodle Soup and your choice from selected entrees or rolls. Combination dinners (adequate portions) are also budget friendly and include Rock Shrimp Skewers and Tempura Alaskan Cod.

Watching the chefs prepare the food is one of the main attractions. Sit back and enjoy the show while sipping a specialty cocktail like the Melon Drop or Beach Party or have a Sapporo (the Japanese equivalent of Budweiser). Sake, served hot or cold, is flowing.

Bring your children, let them find their own favorites, and try a Sushitarian special dessert, The Dancing Monkey, with warm tempura-fried bananas and vanilla ice cream (yes, it looks like a monkey!) with a strawberry, melon or bubblegum Ramune Soda.

And when you are ready to leave, you will hear a resounding Arigatou, or thank you! Printer Friendly Version

Melanie Walzer is a nutritionist who has worked with migrant farm workers, recipe and product development and with television food commercials. Melanie is a photographer whose photographs have appeared in the New York Times, the Library of Congress, the Museum of the American Indian, and the New Jersey State Museum. She loves to ski in Colorado, both downhill and cross country. Melanie has been a chef and is very interested in sustainable organic farming and of course, loves to cook!

Reader comments received on this article:

On November 17, 2008, at 6:34 pm, Huntington J Bear wrote:

anyone know where I can get a decent mamaliggah in durango?

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